AS MANY TIMES as I’ve cooked steak, I’ve only rarely achieved that state of perfection found in Paris bistros. So, on a trip to that city researching recipes for an upcoming book, I was eager to consult with Hugo Desnoyer, the eponymous proprietor of what is arguably Paris’s most highly regarded butcher shop.
“In France we have a method to make a perfect steak every time. It’s very simple,” he assured me. “As long as you use quality meat to begin with.”
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